Beside the shutface pilar, this area is often rusted badly. However my car was not rusted these places also need extra attention. Not very strange these places rust away because all water and dirt are kept together inside lower part of the dash side strengthener. Maybe we have to drill one or more big holes in the bottom to prevent that water and dirt will stay there.
First I removed all material below the 70% (original material left) and then remade all missing parts. Sprayed again everything in zinc paint and welded everything back to there original positions.
Hi, Thanks for that impressive blog on your XK140 restoration!
This is very helpful for me. I’m in the same situation as you a few years ago: a disassembled (not be my) XK140 is waiting to get back on the road. I want to lift the body off the frame, and I’m unsure whether or not I should secure the body with removable reinforcements, i.e. where the doors are. From the picture it does not look like you did put in additional material, is that correct? Also I plan to take off the front fenders, did you just grund off the lead and drill the wedling spots? Thanks & greetings from Switzerland, Chris
I removed the front fenders by heating the lead with a torch (It can be reused) and afterward drilling the spot welds out. For me this was something I could do myself, grinding A square part out of the front wing and weld in a new part was for me a not no it yourself job, and not wise if the front wings are still in perfect condition. Because The sill and floors etc where in very good condition I did not strengthen the body. I kept it on the chassis during most of the welding (also use a lot spot welding which gives less stress in the metal). Maybe this must be done for a OTS or DHC but the FHC is already much stronger. Don’t forget to keep all the spaces between body and chassis seperated and/or numbered. They all have different thickness.