jan 012008
 

1) Always buy a complete car, it is almost impossible to see if a car is complete from a pile of boxes. The parts which are missing are always very difficult to find and they can be very expensive.

2) If you are looking for a complete restoration object don’t buy one who is looking to nice. It will be to expensive at the end because your are going to replace everything after all. It is cheaper to buy one with a lot of work because the object selling price is will be much lower then a cosmetic good looking car.

3) …

 Posted by at 12:00
jan 012008
 

Do’s

  1. Make a lot of pictures from the disassembling and assembling process.
  2. Only buy bearings from the original brand (e.g. Timken)
  3. Buy all rubber parts from a good quality (e.g. Metalastik)
  4. Keep the body mounted onto the chassis during welding activities on the body to prevent warping or twisting of the structure
  5. Keep track of all spacers placed between chassis and body and make sure they are placed back on the same location.
    The spacers all look the same but they are all customized for the specific location.
  6. Make identification marks before removing the bearing caps from crankshaft and camshafts.
    It is a very expensive job to fix this afterwards.
  7. For replacing parts I use the 70% rule;
  8. a)  if the basis material is less then 70% replace with new sheet metal (complete or partly)
    b) If the basis material is better then 70% repair and keep the original sheet metal

 

Dont’s

  1. Be careful with dissembling the pinion and crown gears from differential casing.
    This job can only be done by specialists, and is not always needed.
  2. Be careful with removing the hubs from the rear axle. Don’t use pulling devices which attaches on the outside of the hubs, it better to use one connected to the wheel mounting studs.
 Posted by at 12:00