feb 282013

During the restoration process I found out that a number of parts where missing or the mounted parts where incorrect.

A lot of parts are still available in the reproduction market but I prefer second hand original vintage parts instead. Here is a list with the most important parts still missing:

  • 1 x Starting Pipe Assembly for  Carburetter (C7440, Parts manual 2, F-76)
  • 1 x Anti-Blow-Back Valve in Starting Pipe (C4204, Parts manual 2, F-79)
  • 1 x Spring, tension, for Anti-Blow-Back Valve (C7470, Parts manual 2, F80)
  • 1 x Sleeve over Tension Spring (C8455, Parts manual 2, F81)
  • 1 x Lever on Operating Shaft (C2483, Parts manual 5,N-12)
  • 1 x Clutch Pedal (C8878, Parts manual 5, N-16)
 Posted by at 17:00
nov 272019

The spare wheel cover consists of a wooden piece of 7 layer plywood (1/2″ thick) covered with aluminium sheet metal. Because there were some original markings on the inside, I decided to keep then together with the original black paint. The aluminium sheet metal was damaged so I straighten it and painted it high gloss black.

Spare Wheel Cover in Original condition
All parts needed to rebuild the spare wheel cover

The Jack together with the other tools has been kept as original.

The original marking on the inside of the spare wheel cover
The spare wheel cover in open position
The spare wheel cover in closed position (A big difference with the first picture)
 Posted by at 16:09
nov 132019

After I crossed the 50% boundary almost 5 years ago I finished the following items;

  • Finished the body work repair
  • Assembled the body work
  • Finished the rolling chassis; Carburetor, Dynamo, Starter, Waterpump, Oil cleaner and Engine
  • Finished the interior heater and screen washer motor

During the last 25% i will still need to do;

  • Electrical installation
  • Assembling interior
  • Lining
  • Straightening and spraying the outside of the body work
  • Mounting all the exterior items; Bumpers, Light, Glass, Chrome bit and pieces etc
 Posted by at 16:35
okt 232019
Boot hing in original condition

The boot lid itself has been cleaned (all original paint has been removed) before it is painted again in epoxy primer and the inside is also finished with Pearl grey gloss. Also all parts needed for the rebuild has been restored.

All parts needed to rebuild the boot lid hings
All parts needed to rebuild the boot lid locking mechanism
Boot lid monted
 Posted by at 16:29
jun 232019

The seat runners, used to adjust the front seats backwards or forwards, where pretty rusty. To be able to remove the rust also from the inside I took them completely apart. Because these parts are pretty small I was able the sandblast them myself.

The seat runners as removed from the car

As you can see from the photo’s there is not much paint left, So I assumed they where painted in the same color as the base frame of the front seats (White with a greenish tint).

All parts needed to rebuild the front seat runners

After everything is painted in epoxy primer and the greenish white, it was reassembled again. The 8 small metal tubes are used as a final stop, to prevent the runner is moving too far outside the base part. The place where the ball are rolling are left unpainted to guarantied a smooth operation.

Reassembled front seat runners
 Posted by at 14:25
jun 072019

Until now I was able to sand-glass blast everything myself. For the parts that where to big for the cabin I did it with wire brushes (with or without the help of a drilling machine). But the steel doors are very difficult to clean from the inside and sand blasting seems the only easy solution. I’ve always been very reserved with sand blasting parts by specialized companies because I am afraid that the parts will be damaged in some way.

Parts brought to the sand blaster
Parts returned from the sand blaster together with all other parts sandblasted by myself

After inspecting I found out that the surface of all parts where made very rough and before I could start painting it had to be sanded very well. I also had to straighten out some sheet metal parts because they very distorted. The right door also show some kind of dent and will need to be repaired.
The same hold for the left door because the lower part of the door has been replace completely

After the sand blasting I also found two parts which show holes through the metal which are in need to be welded before they can be painted.

All parts are, as mentioned before, sanded and painted in 2K Epoxy primer, before they are painted in the correct color;

  • High gloss black (TH de beer 2K)
    Parts below the dash and for spare wheel tray cover (not on the pictures)
  • Pearl grey (TH de beer 2K Special made)
    Parts which are visible
  • Red brown (Sikkens 2K, 408H5 50% gloss)
    Parts which are not visible directly
  • Light green (Sikkens 2K, 436F1 70% gloss)
    Front seat frames

The last items which are still in need of some fresh layer epoxy primer are;

  • The left and right doors (inside and outside)
  • The left side of the roof
  • The left rear side
 Posted by at 18:27
nov 042018

The original windscreen motor

After inspecting the wiper motor, located inside the left front wing, came to the following conclusion:

  • The paint of the main housing is still in decent condition and therefor I decided to do a simple touch-up.
  • The mounting bracket and motor brushes are replaced by new ones.
  • I decided to keep the Lucas tag original.
  • All wiring needs to be replaced by new silicone rubber type wiring.
    (The isolation material on the internal wiring was completely gone!)
  • All other parts just need to be cleaned thoroughly
    (Especially the outside and the inside of gears housing)

All parts needed to rebuild the windscreen motor

As seen on the last photo two windscreen wipers can be connected and will be set in motion by the gears, located behind  polished  lid. The cable in the parts overview will be pushed and pulled back and forth to get the wiper arms in movement. This engine has 5 electrical connections as shown in the schematic below

Windscreen wiper motor detail

Windscreen wiper motor complete setup

 Posted by at 13:25
okt 202018

When I bought the car the heater was already removed from the body and placed in one of the many boxes.
After looking at it in more detail I noticed there was a bit of oxidation visible in the area around the connection pipes.







I started we dis-assembling everything. Most parts still looks fine and can be finished with some retouching especially the upper part, which is made of cast aluminium, is finished with special wrinkle paint. The rest of the painted parts are just in gloss black paint. To prevent leakages after installing I pressure test the heater core with 0.5 bar (normally the cool system of the car will not become higher then 4 LBS). Although the heater core has signs of leakage the core is still water tight. After glass beat blasting and cleaning it can be finished with several layers of gloss black paint. The upper part is painted only partly the preserve the numbers painted on it from the factory.

Parts needed to rebuild the heater unit

Now that all parts are thoroughly cleaned, painted and retouched everything can be re-assembled again. Also the 12V motor has been tested, after applying some crease inside, it spins without making any noise. (the carbon brushes are OK, and there is no play on the bearings)

 Posted by at 20:20
sep 052018

The fairing panel, the connection between the two front wings, has been removed completely because the front wings were also removed.  This piece already shown some cracks on the places where is was welded onto the front wings. Now the front wings are remounted again the fairing panel, after it has been repaired, can also be put back again. To smooth out the surface a layer of lead has been applied, to prevent a tick layer of filler during the paint job.

Front wings without the fairing panel

Fairing panal rewelded onto the front wings

New layer of lead applied to smooth out the surface

New layer of epoxy primer

Bonnet fitment onto the fairing panel

 Posted by at 18:23
mei 202018

One of the last parts needed to start the engine is the distribution and ignition. The last parts will be the fuel pump and some small missing parts around the timing and choke functionality.

Parts needed to rebuild the distribution and ignition

During installation of the ignition coil bracket I found out that the right upper corner should have a chamfered edge. This part has been bought new because the original one was missing. With the current shape the throttle axis hits the bracket at the location mentioned before.

The clamp used to fix the distributor on the engine block was also missing. After several attempts, to buy an used or new one failed, I decided to make one myself. The nut and bolt, shown on the left side of the clamp, are reused from a different wrong model clamp.

Distribution parts mounted

Ignition parts mounted










The ignition sequence is 1, 5, 3, 6, 2, 4. Plug number one is at the rear of the engine, number 6 at the front.
Cylinder 1 and 6, 2 and 5, 3 and 4 are moving synchronous. They also switch between the front three cylinders and rear three cylinders between each ignition. (Most probably to get a good distribution of the forces on the crankshaft) So this is the reason the ignition sequence is a bit strange.

 Posted by at 14:37
mei 152018

In the last months I have been busy with removing all old layers of paint from the bonnet and front wings. So it is now time to give the bonnet a new fresh layer of paint. In order to ensure that the adhesion of the paint to the aluminum is good, an epoxy primer must first be applied. Secondly a fresh layer of pearl grey paint will be applied.

Parts need for mounting the bonnet

Bonnet painted with epoxy primer on the inside


Now that all individual parts are finished the Bonnet can be mounted onto the body. Next step is the adjustment of the bonnet onto the front wings and body. If these adjustments are all OK the small piece of metal, located between both front wings, can be welled into his place. This will be the last part of the bodywork for the front side of the car.

Bonnet hings mounted between body and bonnet

Bonnet painted on the inside

 Posted by at 21:39